café de moore

Brand spanking new to the CM food scene is the quaint Café de Moore. Al fresco on Prapokklao Rd, soi 4, look for a juice stand called Drink More which sits at the entrance.
Everything can be made vegetarian friendly, and the menu boasts healthy Thai fusion. Selections are evolving and may vary depending on fresh ingredients the owner/chef picks up that day. She speaks excellent English [as a Payap International College grad - represent!] and will make recommendations if you can't decide. At the moment it's a small enterprise, but as her menu evolves, and thanks to her personal ambition and innovation in the kitchen, there is potential for this place to truly blossom. So go, support! And tell your friends too. Maybe I'll see you there.

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Notables | green curry with dragonfruit [add tofu for a protein kick]. chef special sandwich [the bread has been french toasted!].

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Prapokklao Rd. Soi 4 [close to Chiang Mai Gate], next to Siam Commercial Bank
tel. 089-433-7688
Mon-Sun 7:30am - 8:00pm

salad concept

There are often times in CM life when one feels practically saturated by endless options of things ผัด [phad aka 'fried']. Khao phad. Phad kee mao. Phad pak ruam. Phad. Phad. Phad. While delicious, the greasiness can leave you feeling...well, downright greasy - both inside and out.
During these times, eating a fresh vegetable or two could feel like an herbal spa treatment for the corpus. Thus, the CM gods bestowed upon us The Salad Concept. Blessed be our oil-logged arteries! Bright and bustling on the corner of Niman, soi 13, you can choose from the menu or construct your own salad by adding seeds, beans, vegetables, meat, and/or cheese, plus a homemade dressing of your choice. Don't worry folks, the usual gunky, tasteless, cream dressing [you know what I'm talking about] is not on the menu here. Instead, options like Japanese soy sauce, tamarind sesame, carrot, pumpkin, Thai mint, or tofu are on offer.
The service is quick and as dynamic as the crowd it attracts; uniformed students, bespectacled elderly, trendy Niman-ites, Thai and non-Thai scenesters, and grungy backpackers all chomp on the green stuff and love it. Above all else, free wifi. So, go. Now!

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Notables | organic tofu salad. salmon whole wheat pasta salad. anti-cancer drink [must try it at least once!].

Sweet treats | carrot cake. cranberry square [very yum].

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Nimanhaemin Rd. Soi 13
hours: 11:00am - 10:00pm tel. 053-894-455

sumo sushi

I love this place.
Presentation is everything. And the rolling 'artist' at Sumo Sushi knows how to work it. Think trendy Japanese fusion restaurants in the west. You know the ones: where a few orders of the jade dragon, spider, godzilla - or some other roll named after a vaguely exotic and dangerous sounding species - can set you back an easy $40-50 USD per person. At Sumo Sushi you get the same quality - if not better - for a fraction of that price.
Yet another cool spot in Nimanhaemin, everything I've tried here is deelish. No air-con, but your tastebuds will be so happy it won't really matter.

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notables | jade dragon roll. rainbow roll. 911 roll. mango roll. seared salmon. ahhh, basically everything!

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Nimanhaemin Rd. Soi 11
tel. 053.894.920

...and we're back

Hello CMers -
I was on an extended hiatus due to a broken camera [I will never buy a touch-screen camera again. With my butter fingers and tendency to drop electronics, the ol' Sony became touch-less]. But good news: I am now equipped with a new kickass Canon S90. So it's back to the streets of hedonism and revival of the CM epicurean! Stay tuned...

el diablo

The very fact that El Diablo provides free, fresh tortilla chips & salsa is excuse enough to check out this joint. ED is located next to Mike's Burger [on the east side of the moat] and is a welcome addition to the Chiang Mai tex-mex scene.
The salsa is a little too ketchupy, but the guacamole has much improved since this was first posted. The burritos are tasty and HUGE. They certainly stuff them to the max. The quesadillas are also quite hefty. All items, in my opinion, are definitely share-worthy, which makes this place a decent deal for the wallet. And their homemade tortilla chips in a bottomless basket? Ah, so worth the visit. A friend also told me you can buy a bag of the chips at 50 baht for homemade nacho creations. At that price, I'll take 2 bags.

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notables | nachos supreme with chorizo. pork and green chili burrito.

ridgley's

* Sad to say, during my cyber absence, Ridgley's has since closed down with no word on reopening. But that baked spinach cheese dip will forever live on in the memory of my palate. This post remains in honour of you! *

Since I started living abroad [about five years ago], I've had a number of cravings for a rich, creamy, cheesy spinach [or spinach and artichoke] dip. Served in a pumpernickel bread bowl or with with warm, toasted pita and tortilla chips...talk about comfort food. But, living in Asia, this appetizer simply doesn't exist among a plethora of noodle and rice dishes.
Now, at Ridgley's, I've discovered a fantastic spinach cheese dip not too far from where I work. Yes! Cravings: satisfied. The dip even converted a meat- loving, British colleague with an aversion to anything "vegetable" [especially "green vegetable" - the horror]. It's that gooood.
The menu is packed with hearty options [chili, ribs, burgers], so check it out the next time you're hit with a mean craving for western dining fare. Another plus, the atmosphere is friendly and warm, and completely void of the kitschy wall signs or gimmicky chain trademarks ["you can throw peanut shells on the floor!" "You can draw on the chart paper/table mat with the greasy, blunt crayons on the table!"] of restaurant chains back home.
Ridgley's, welcome to the neighbourhood!

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notables | baked spinach cheese dip served with fresh diced tomatoes and warm flatbread. the pizzas: meat lovers, italian, sweet & spicy BBQ, or make your own [with alternative options of alfredo or bbq sauces]. the desserts [if you have room].

location | on the road to Doi Saket, drive past the outer ring road. There is a market on the left and just past it, turn left on the diagonal road. Pass a temple, some food stalls, a vegetarian food stall, and Ridgley's will be on your left [yes, these directions are serious].

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tel. 053.490.846

paradornparp international house - payap university

True, the PIH dining hall is off the beaten track for most, if not all, backpacker folk and other locals not associated with Payap University. But that aside, for anyone in the neighbourhood, the made-to-order food is pretty good. The lunch hour is packed with PIH residents, Law students [on break from their building next door], short-term study abroad groups, visiting scholars, and other Payap staff and faculty who hop on trusty Sky Blue [the elongated golf cart that serves as a shuttle between PIH and the main campus] for a cheap and tasty meal.
PIH is located at the Mae Khao campus [behind Carrefour, off the superhighway]. Look for bilingual signs that direct you to the east campus. The dining hall is on the first floor to the right of the entrance, but you can purchase coupons from the friendly reception staff at the front desk.

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notable | my absolute favourite is the ข้าวผัดปลาเค็ม + ไข่ดาว [khao pad pla kem + kai dao], fried rice with salted fish topped with a fried egg. add fresh squeezed lime juice and a generous drizzle of fish sauce = yum.

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053 851 377 ext. 0

ellie bum

Inside the moat, Ellie Bum is a great place for a rockin' latte and blueberry pancakes. Free wi-fi [always a plus these days] could entice you to hang through breakfast, lunch, the sweltering afternoon heat [or, as we're in rainy season, those 4pm-ish flash torrential downpours], and perhaps even stick around for a pre-dinner mojito. The owner speaks great English and is extremely personable. EB is also a guesthouse which includes breakfast for its patrons. Previous guests have described the hospitable owner and the experience as "just like family." Local expats, Bangkok vacationers, backpackers sporting 'Same Same but Different' t-shirts, and both local and international artsy types float in and out on the regular. Bring your laptop [or iPhone] and enjoy.

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notables | hot latte. blueberry pancakes. any of the sandwiches.

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114/3-4 Rachamanka Rd. | 085.018.7400

the house

The House. Mmmm.
Go after payday or when you have friends in town -- it's worth the splurge, trust me. Our group of 4 strategized our appetizers and entrees so we could all try each others' dish. For the sake of everyone's palate, go with friends who like to share. The menu changes seasonally (as we discovered a few weeks ago) but remains consistently delish. There are a number of vegetarian-friendly options, a tapas menu, and a nice selection of wine. It's very romantic, so enjoy it with someone you actually like. No one should experience such exquisite food in bad company.

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notables | due to the seasonal menu, I can't guarantee these will be available by the time you save enough baht (or your parents - biological or sugar - are in town to foot the bill).
Here's a sample of what we ordered: beef carpaccio with blue cream cheese, crisp parmesan, mini herbs and truffle cream. spicy grilled prawns marinated in chili paste, coriander, lemongrass, pomelo, mint salsa and basil. five-spice crusted tuna served on polenta and spinach with red capsicum sauce (sooo good). roasted salmon with black olive crust, red chili potatoes and semi dried tomatoes. eggplant gnocchi wrapped with ricotta cheese, pine nuts, raisin, and tomato herb sauce (also, sooo good).

dessert notable | chocolate ganache served with raspberry sorbet while sipping a neat Grand Marnier.

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199 Moonmuang Rd - north or Thapae Gate, inside the moat
tel. 053.419.010

miguel's cafe

I tend to hear mixed reviews about Miguel's, one of two mexican [more like tex-mex] restaurants in CM. But, during the 2+ years I've lived here, the place has really grown on me. I always stick to what I like and leave pretty satisfied every time.
Miguel's location isn't the quietest - it sits right on the busy road outside the moat. Sometimes you'll have to alternate between shouting and talking to friends as noisy choppers and tuk-tuks obnoxiously whiz by. That aside, the atmosphere is cheery and there will always be farang faces stuffing themselves beside you. At peak dinner hours the place fills up, so choose your timing wisely.

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notables | chicken fajita soft taco. baja fish taco. nachos grande. sizzling fajitas [huge!]. any kind of wet burrito. the margaritas.

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tel. 053.874.148

smoothie blues

Smoothie Blues sits on the corner of Niman's soi 6 and is well-patroned by mostly farang. It's run by a friendly family who also own the eyeglass shop next door. I've never been overly excited by the breakfast here, but the smoothies are yummy and I've recently discovered a really great pesto tuna sandwich.
As Niman continues to build up [literally, with the number of condos and complexes under construction] so increases the number of foreigners and expatriates in the area. Smoothie Blues has become a default rendez-vous point for this growing population. In fact, occasionally I almost forget that we are in Thailand as the joint is somewhat of a farangy bubble.
It's a popular spot for brunch-goers and ideal for people-watching. Whether seated on the outdoor patio or inside absorbing the a/c in windowed comfort, you can't help but cruise the daytime Niman bustle.

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notables | any of the smoothies. pesto tuna sandwich [add avocado] on whole wheat bread.

bake & bite

A Chiang Mai weekend isn't complete without brunch at B&B. You'll find me and my regular compadres at either the Kaew Nawarat or Nimanhaemin locations, probably sometime after 11:00am on any given Saturday or Sunday. Don't mind us as we leaf through the Nation or Bangkok Post, commenting here and there about the latest political shenanigan or an interesting article on gender and/or transgender.
Apart from a spot to catch up on the news, the food is reliably rockin'. We basically order the exact same thing every time.
The newest residential location off of Kaew Nawarat has the main bakery and supplies the other branches with bagels, bread, biscuits, english muffins, scones, cinnamon rolls, quiche, brownies, cookies, pies...and so many more I can't remember them all. The owner informed us recently that they've started supplying Rimping Supermarket with bagels. Excellent.
B&B is like the daytime Duke's as missionary families and friends tend to fill up the place before and after church on Sundays. So, schedule your hunger accordingly.

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notables | spinach and cheese enchilada. eggs florentine. hash browns. muesli pancakes. whole-grain bagel with cream cheese, garlic & chives. goat cheese bruschetta. hot latte [the regular size is huge, so ask for the small mug, unless you need a jumpstart after a loss-of-braincell type evening].

alternate notable | the vegetarian set [includes yogurt, fresh fruit, a small muesli pancake, spinach & cheese omelette, and coffee]. Share this with someone and order one of the notable dishes above.

locations | There are two. Driving eastbound down Kaew Nawarat, look for the yellow signage to your right. Nimanhaemin Rd, soi 6, across from Powerhouse Gym.

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Nimanhaemin 053.400.577

burmese restaurant

The burmese restaurant is a nameless hole-in-the-wall on Nimanhaemin. What lacks in decor is made up for in cuisine. Just as the name implies, the restaurant offers simply good food without all the fluff and facade of most Niman restaurants. The random posters taped to white-wash walls and searing fluorescent lights add to its quirky charm. A great new wall addition is an adaptation of J. Howard Miller's "We Can Do It!" poster with Aung San Syuu Kyi as the heroine icon.
Located across from soi 13, the unassuming restaurant sits on a corner, a few steps from the 7-11. Patrons can order standard Thai dishes a la carte in addition to what's offered on the burmese menu.

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notables | tea leaves salad. bean soup. pennyworth salad. burmese tea.

vieng joom on

You can't miss the bright exterior of Vieng Joom On. In Northern Thai, vieng means wooden fort, and joom on, pink.
And pink it is.
A teahouse in femme fatigue, the crisp pink and white linens gracenote cushioned wicker and floral pillows galore. The three-storey establishment cozies along the Ping River and is a good choice for a light lunch or afternoon snack.
The all-เจ menu offers dainty selections with modest portions. It's quality, not quantity.
Vieng Joom On rightfully boasts a grandiose selection of teas: chinese green and black, rooibos, fruit, masala chai, herbal, the list goes on. Canisters of loose tea leaves line the entrance wall behind friendly staff who immediately wai in greeting, all ready for a la carte purchases. For those in need of retail therapy, hit the giftshop on the first floor.

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notables | crepe with creamy tomato sauce, sprinkled with sliced almonds. mushroom strudel [mushroom and cream sauce wrapped in crispy filo pastry]. apple and prune filo dessert.

note | this is definitely a place to re-visit.

*Apologies for the somewhat janky photos - all I had was my mobile phone camera.

le spice

Of all the indian restaurants I've tried in Chiang Mai, Le Spice is my favourite. This place identifies as an indian, thai, and seafood restaurant. My suggestion: go indian.
The sets start at 99 baht and generally include two curries, a dahl, raita, papadum and rice. If you're with a group of people, it's always fun to order a number of dishes a la carte and share. Just think, the more people you're with, the more dishes you can try.
The menu is extensive. To aid the selection process, decide what kind of curry you're in the mood for [vindaloo, masala, saag, etc.] and then choose the meat/vegetable [chicken, mutton, beef, fish, paneer, etc].
To get there, drive down the night bazaar road and about midway you'll see the Kalare complex on your left. There is a Doi Chaang Coffee at the end of the complex. Turn immediately left down the soi and you'll see the brightly-lit Le Spice sign on the right.

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notables | fish tikka. malai kofta [vegetable balls in a creamy curry]. vindaloo and/or masala [fish, chicken, mutton, you decide]. saag paneer [homemade indian cheese in spinach curry]. bengan bharta [eggplant curry]. any rice biriyani. lots of garlic naan. le spice naan [addition of dried fruit, coconut = funky].

sweet notables | kulfi [spiced rice ice cream]. kheer [indian rice pudding].

note | definitely vegetarian-friendly.

the duke's

For western cravings and a western appetite, go to The Duke's. And perhaps wear your stretchy pants.
The portions are generous, so try to save room for dessert. Although I'm not a huge meat eater, I've heard the steak and ribs are tasty.
The Duke's is family friendly and a good place to relish appetizers between friends. Count on full tables during peak dinner hours.
There are two locations: one along the Ping River not far from Rimping Supermarket, and a newer branch in the Night Bazaar. I stay true to the Ping River location - cheaper prices and away from the tourist commotion of the Night Bazaar area. For Hang Dong-ers, a third location is due to open in Kad Farang very soon. Whichever location you choose, don't be surprised if you feel like rolling yourself out the door.

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notables | the big nacho. warm spinach salad [all salads are served with crusty foccacia bread]. a bowl of homemade chili. pizza [huge and you can choose your own toppings]

sweet notables | monster chocolate chip cookie [ask your server to warm it up first...mmm]. warm brownie a la mode.

liquid refreshment | cold stein of Salvator beer.

เจ food stall - payap canteen

Since the opening of this vegetarian food stall, the Payap canteen has become a viable, and even select, option for lunch. Once upon a time, we used to venture the canteen as a last resort. But these days, I often look forward to lunch at the newly renovated 'Manna Food Center.' I even find myself craving the mock roasted red pork and duck, and will do anything for the fried mushrooms. Although it is still pretty much unbearable during hot season, the canteen itself has undergone some improvements in terms of atmosphere. Among the sparse food stall selections, this veg spot is a saving grace among slim pickings.
The stall is located at Payap University's Mae Khao campus, behind Carrefour off of the superhighway. Upon entering the campus, the canteen is on your right. Look for the typical yellow เจ signage.

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notables | everything. especially the fried mushrooms.

khun churn

Khun Churn is a Chiang Mai staple. Located on soi 17 off Nimanhaemin, seating under a trademark tin roof provides an outdoor atmosphere for friendly facestuffing. You can also choose to sit indoors, but beware if it's rainy season. I've sat inside during torrential rainfall and water actually leaked from the light fixtures.
The lunch buffet, anytime between 11:30-2:00pm, is decent. Less than 100 baht for a plethora of vegetarian, เจ [jay], dishes, plus your choice of an herbal beverage. Otherwise, Khun Churn offers a vegetarian friendly breakfast menu and/or reasonably priced dinner selections. I don't think I've ever ordered something I didn't like.

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notables | mushroom & seaweed omelette [หอยทอด or huay tod]. fresh spring rolls [ปอเปี้ยะสด or popiah sod]. pomelo salad [ยำส้มโอ or yum som-o]. sizzling mushroom plate. fried potatoes with garlic and cilantro. lemongrass beverage [น้ำตะไคร้ or naam tda-krai].

lucky foo's

* Like a number of businesses in risky CM, Lucky Foo's has also bit the dust. Too bad, it was perhaps one of my favourite breakfast spots! *
Any menu with goat cheese always keeps me coming back for more.
Quietly set in CM's backpacker domain, Lucky Foo's is a restaurant/lounge with friendly fare for non, fake, and real vegetarians alike. The breakfast selections are so good, you may even find yourself there two days in a row.
The open storefront and numerous windows permit jocund daylight to accompany brunch. Inside, the decor has an air of cool-kitsch. Chairs of cushioned iron and shellacked red tables welcome rumbling stomachs on legs. On Sundays, an upbeat bluegrass band twangs on as you recount the previous night's fuzzy occurrences over a decent mug of fresh brewed coffee.

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notables | tofu scramble [this is the best deal, only 90 baht for the scramble, hashbrowns, soy bacon, and choice of bread]. buttermilk biscuits [serious melt in your mouth goodness]. baked herb eggs [eggs, goat cheese, and herby herbs]. belgium waffles with fruit compote. breakfast frittata.

so-so | chicken quesadilla.

future endeavours | smoked salmon & goat cheese on a bagel with fries.

location | from the moat, turn down Moon Muang soi 1. continue on as the soi turns right. before the soi turns right again, look for the yellow building on your left.

mi casa

If only Mi Casa were closer to my neck of the woods. Just off Suthep Road behind Chiang Mai University, this romantic Mediterranean restaurant even has a real, live Spanish chef behind the scenes.
You can choose to sit in the lush outdoors or inside with cozy home decor. A special menu can be arranged for private parties - your guests will not be let down.
Start with tapas and sangria, then indulge in the attentive service, quiet atmosphere, and decadent menu. Speaking of indulging, Mi Casa serves a fresh, crusty homemade bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Yum.

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notables | tapas sampler. rocket salad. pan de la casa [fresh, crusty bread with olive oil & balsamic vinegar]. pan-fried chilean cod fillet [with red wine risotto]. chargrilled australian beef tenderloin with red wine sauce [on rosti potatoes & asian mushroom ragout].