the house

The House. Mmmm.
Go after payday or when you have friends in town -- it's worth the splurge, trust me. Our group of 4 strategized our appetizers and entrees so we could all try each others' dish. For the sake of everyone's palate, go with friends who like to share. The menu changes seasonally (as we discovered a few weeks ago) but remains consistently delish. There are a number of vegetarian-friendly options, a tapas menu, and a nice selection of wine. It's very romantic, so enjoy it with someone you actually like. No one should experience such exquisite food in bad company.

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notables | due to the seasonal menu, I can't guarantee these will be available by the time you save enough baht (or your parents - biological or sugar - are in town to foot the bill).
Here's a sample of what we ordered: beef carpaccio with blue cream cheese, crisp parmesan, mini herbs and truffle cream. spicy grilled prawns marinated in chili paste, coriander, lemongrass, pomelo, mint salsa and basil. five-spice crusted tuna served on polenta and spinach with red capsicum sauce (sooo good). roasted salmon with black olive crust, red chili potatoes and semi dried tomatoes. eggplant gnocchi wrapped with ricotta cheese, pine nuts, raisin, and tomato herb sauce (also, sooo good).

dessert notable | chocolate ganache served with raspberry sorbet while sipping a neat Grand Marnier.

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199 Moonmuang Rd - north or Thapae Gate, inside the moat
tel. 053.419.010

miguel's cafe

I tend to hear mixed reviews about Miguel's, one of two mexican [more like tex-mex] restaurants in CM. But, during the 2+ years I've lived here, the place has really grown on me. I always stick to what I like and leave pretty satisfied every time.
Miguel's location isn't the quietest - it sits right on the busy road outside the moat. Sometimes you'll have to alternate between shouting and talking to friends as noisy choppers and tuk-tuks obnoxiously whiz by. That aside, the atmosphere is cheery and there will always be farang faces stuffing themselves beside you. At peak dinner hours the place fills up, so choose your timing wisely.

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notables | chicken fajita soft taco. baja fish taco. nachos grande. sizzling fajitas [huge!]. any kind of wet burrito. the margaritas.

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tel. 053.874.148

smoothie blues

Smoothie Blues sits on the corner of Niman's soi 6 and is well-patroned by mostly farang. It's run by a friendly family who also own the eyeglass shop next door. I've never been overly excited by the breakfast here, but the smoothies are yummy and I've recently discovered a really great pesto tuna sandwich.
As Niman continues to build up [literally, with the number of condos and complexes under construction] so increases the number of foreigners and expatriates in the area. Smoothie Blues has become a default rendez-vous point for this growing population. In fact, occasionally I almost forget that we are in Thailand as the joint is somewhat of a farangy bubble.
It's a popular spot for brunch-goers and ideal for people-watching. Whether seated on the outdoor patio or inside absorbing the a/c in windowed comfort, you can't help but cruise the daytime Niman bustle.

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notables | any of the smoothies. pesto tuna sandwich [add avocado] on whole wheat bread.

bake & bite

A Chiang Mai weekend isn't complete without brunch at B&B. You'll find me and my regular compadres at either the Kaew Nawarat or Nimanhaemin locations, probably sometime after 11:00am on any given Saturday or Sunday. Don't mind us as we leaf through the Nation or Bangkok Post, commenting here and there about the latest political shenanigan or an interesting article on gender and/or transgender.
Apart from a spot to catch up on the news, the food is reliably rockin'. We basically order the exact same thing every time.
The newest residential location off of Kaew Nawarat has the main bakery and supplies the other branches with bagels, bread, biscuits, english muffins, scones, cinnamon rolls, quiche, brownies, cookies, pies...and so many more I can't remember them all. The owner informed us recently that they've started supplying Rimping Supermarket with bagels. Excellent.
B&B is like the daytime Duke's as missionary families and friends tend to fill up the place before and after church on Sundays. So, schedule your hunger accordingly.

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notables | spinach and cheese enchilada. eggs florentine. hash browns. muesli pancakes. whole-grain bagel with cream cheese, garlic & chives. goat cheese bruschetta. hot latte [the regular size is huge, so ask for the small mug, unless you need a jumpstart after a loss-of-braincell type evening].

alternate notable | the vegetarian set [includes yogurt, fresh fruit, a small muesli pancake, spinach & cheese omelette, and coffee]. Share this with someone and order one of the notable dishes above.

locations | There are two. Driving eastbound down Kaew Nawarat, look for the yellow signage to your right. Nimanhaemin Rd, soi 6, across from Powerhouse Gym.

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Nimanhaemin 053.400.577

burmese restaurant

The burmese restaurant is a nameless hole-in-the-wall on Nimanhaemin. What lacks in decor is made up for in cuisine. Just as the name implies, the restaurant offers simply good food without all the fluff and facade of most Niman restaurants. The random posters taped to white-wash walls and searing fluorescent lights add to its quirky charm. A great new wall addition is an adaptation of J. Howard Miller's "We Can Do It!" poster with Aung San Syuu Kyi as the heroine icon.
Located across from soi 13, the unassuming restaurant sits on a corner, a few steps from the 7-11. Patrons can order standard Thai dishes a la carte in addition to what's offered on the burmese menu.

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notables | tea leaves salad. bean soup. pennyworth salad. burmese tea.

vieng joom on

You can't miss the bright exterior of Vieng Joom On. In Northern Thai, vieng means wooden fort, and joom on, pink.
And pink it is.
A teahouse in femme fatigue, the crisp pink and white linens gracenote cushioned wicker and floral pillows galore. The three-storey establishment cozies along the Ping River and is a good choice for a light lunch or afternoon snack.
The all-เจ menu offers dainty selections with modest portions. It's quality, not quantity.
Vieng Joom On rightfully boasts a grandiose selection of teas: chinese green and black, rooibos, fruit, masala chai, herbal, the list goes on. Canisters of loose tea leaves line the entrance wall behind friendly staff who immediately wai in greeting, all ready for a la carte purchases. For those in need of retail therapy, hit the giftshop on the first floor.

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notables | crepe with creamy tomato sauce, sprinkled with sliced almonds. mushroom strudel [mushroom and cream sauce wrapped in crispy filo pastry]. apple and prune filo dessert.

note | this is definitely a place to re-visit.

*Apologies for the somewhat janky photos - all I had was my mobile phone camera.

le spice

Of all the indian restaurants I've tried in Chiang Mai, Le Spice is my favourite. This place identifies as an indian, thai, and seafood restaurant. My suggestion: go indian.
The sets start at 99 baht and generally include two curries, a dahl, raita, papadum and rice. If you're with a group of people, it's always fun to order a number of dishes a la carte and share. Just think, the more people you're with, the more dishes you can try.
The menu is extensive. To aid the selection process, decide what kind of curry you're in the mood for [vindaloo, masala, saag, etc.] and then choose the meat/vegetable [chicken, mutton, beef, fish, paneer, etc].
To get there, drive down the night bazaar road and about midway you'll see the Kalare complex on your left. There is a Doi Chaang Coffee at the end of the complex. Turn immediately left down the soi and you'll see the brightly-lit Le Spice sign on the right.

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notables | fish tikka. malai kofta [vegetable balls in a creamy curry]. vindaloo and/or masala [fish, chicken, mutton, you decide]. saag paneer [homemade indian cheese in spinach curry]. bengan bharta [eggplant curry]. any rice biriyani. lots of garlic naan. le spice naan [addition of dried fruit, coconut = funky].

sweet notables | kulfi [spiced rice ice cream]. kheer [indian rice pudding].

note | definitely vegetarian-friendly.

the duke's

For western cravings and a western appetite, go to The Duke's. And perhaps wear your stretchy pants.
The portions are generous, so try to save room for dessert. Although I'm not a huge meat eater, I've heard the steak and ribs are tasty.
The Duke's is family friendly and a good place to relish appetizers between friends. Count on full tables during peak dinner hours.
There are two locations: one along the Ping River not far from Rimping Supermarket, and a newer branch in the Night Bazaar. I stay true to the Ping River location - cheaper prices and away from the tourist commotion of the Night Bazaar area. For Hang Dong-ers, a third location is due to open in Kad Farang very soon. Whichever location you choose, don't be surprised if you feel like rolling yourself out the door.

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notables | the big nacho. warm spinach salad [all salads are served with crusty foccacia bread]. a bowl of homemade chili. pizza [huge and you can choose your own toppings]

sweet notables | monster chocolate chip cookie [ask your server to warm it up first...mmm]. warm brownie a la mode.

liquid refreshment | cold stein of Salvator beer.